Tailoring is an art form in which clothing is custom made to fit the wearer’s preferences be through form, cut, drape or silhouette. The same garment can function differently depending on the individual preferences of the wearer and it is through a process of tailoring that these specific desires are achieved.
I was initially inspired by Junya Watanabe’s A/W 2006 collection in which his jackets are reminiscent of utilitarian fashion. I largely drew inspiration from the materials used with a particular focus on hardware and the ways in which the cut and drape of a garment were influenced by hardware in different forms.
I began researching military and utilitarian fashion and took key elements and incorporated them into my design. My design process was largely influenced by the materiality and the ways in which the different materials interacted with each other on the stand. Through this experimental process of making on the stand, I was able to realise my vision.
I decided to invert the notion of utility to create a jacket where features that appear functional are merely aesthetic and features that appear inutile are in fact functional. My piece is able to be customised to the preference of the wearer through the adjustable belt that also determines the drape of the garment. The cord casing at the back is also adjustable and gives the wearer complete control over the cut, texture, drape and length of the garment. The carefully positioned press studs enable the jacket to be worn together as one ensemble, or separately, should the wearer wish to detach the two. Hence, the jacket can be individually tailored to the wearer by the wearer.
Photographer: Segev Opher
Model: Maaike Schipper